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01 Jul 2011

Kai Lenny on Fast Food

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Kai Lenny explaining why fast food can be good for you.

28 Jan 2011

Reo Saint-Evens kitesurfing the tow realm

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Here’s Reo then, bombing down the face of a rather spectral outer Bombora, somewhere on Oahu’s North Shore. This is a place closely associated with tow surfing, and in fact there were a few tow teams out that day, so if you’re at all interested in tow surfing or have access to the Stormerider’s Guide, you’ll be able to pinpoint exactly where this place is.

07 Jan 2011

And that was Oahu.

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So that’s it. Hawaii is over for me. Expectations have been exceeded to the point of having to re-evaluate new expectations, and a full training focus is ready to be implemented when I get home. Aloha, mahalo, cheers and gone!

04 Jan 2011

Sunset Beach and Pipeline, Oahu.

2 comments.-

To understand why Pipeline and Sunset Beach are able to hold huge swells you need to turn around and look inland.

31 Dec 2010

Surf now – Apocolypse later.

1 comment.-

I wandered down to Rocky Point, a fast breaking hollow wave that cracks along a shallow reef to see the new generation tearing up the 2-3ft sets.

29 Dec 2010

Well, I made it to the North Shore!

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Day one on Oahu is nearly over. I arrived yesterday and the swell wasn’t up to much, but through the night the swell picked up a bit as the internet had predicted. I’m staying in a house very close to Sunset Beach. Sunset is one of those places that has a reputation that preceeds it, [...]

28 Dec 2010

Maui greatest hits

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Here’s a quick summary of my surfing experiences on Maui. I’ve spent about 18 of the last 26 days surfing – something I didn’t expect. Last day on Maui yesterday and I was particularly happy to find decent peaks at Ho’okipa looking fairly under-subscribed for a change. Previously I’ve been trying to tackle this place [...]

26 Dec 2010

Christmas Eve in God’s Country

2 comments.-

So there I was, 8am om the 24th December, lounging in my bed and booking some flights to Oahu and Kauai when my phone rings and ‘Archie Kalepa’ comes up on the caller display. I don’t even need to answer the call to know that the day is about to take off in an entirely [...]

23 Dec 2010

Do turtles dream aquatic sleep?

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I can’t answer that from a scientific standpoint, but I will say that they know which side their bread is buttered when it comes to doss down for the night. Below is the front room view from a typical turtle home. You see even though they make their migrations to lay eggs, turtles seem to [...]

19 Dec 2010

A humbling day in the surf – for the right reasons…

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Today I had an insight of what goes into becoming a lifeguard on Maui

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Surf your life away, or let the Man bleed you dry drop by drop

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